Finetastic Adventures

Thursday, March 29, 2007

A Busy Couple of Months

It's hard to believe that we have now been in South Africa for 8 months and that it's been 6 months since we were sworn in as PCVs and working at site. Depending on the day, or even the time of day, it can seem like we've been here forever or that we just arrived. Either way, it's been enjoyable, frustrating, educational, relaxing¿ the full range of emotions has been elicited.

Since IST in late January/early February we have stayed pretty busy. Most of our working hours have been spent in the office of the children's shelter where many of our adult intellectually-impaired client reside. There is a computer in the office so we have been setting up admission databases, financial spreadsheets, creating new application forms, and writing parent newsletters/updates ¿ taking full advantage of having the printer and copier available to us. It's not going to be overnight, but our hope is to train the staff to use the tools we are creating. Up until now all record-keeping has been done by hand, which can lead to accounting errors as well as inefficient analysis and client management.

Our NGO is in the process of building a new facility, so within the next couple of months our office should move, along with many of our clients. Over the next year or two the plan is to have all clients living in the new location, where their workshops will also be located. At present we are sharing space with the children's shelter, which not only means it's overcrowded, but that our clients who are intellectually impaired live with the younger orphans and vulnerable children. This isn't good for either population though, so everyone is excited about the upcoming move.

We've been kept occupied outside of work too. Since IST we've returned to the same area of Mpumulanga for more Peace Corps training; this time it was Life Skills, but we were only there for a couple of days. It was held in mid March, and since it ended on a Thursday and we couldn't make it home before sundown, we stayed over for a night in Nelspruit, then traveled toward home the next day by taxi. It took all day to get to a village which would have been about a two or three hour drive. Some of that time was sitting in the taxis waiting for them to fill; another long wait was at the last stop before the village where we had to wait with the driver for at least someone else to show up besides us. So we sat outside the tuck shop until a couple of other people needed a ride to the village that was only 12 km away. We stayed overnight there with another PC couple (older than us even) whom we had not met, but enjoyed their company, talking late into the night. The next morning (Sat) we had to leave by 7 or we would have stuck there until Monday. As it was, we were left behind by the bus driver, who left early, and fortunately found room on the only taxi headed out of the village.

We have our new bikes! Dave worked tirelessly for months, and he came through. Trek donated bikes to 14 of us volunteers who had been patient through the process; they are wonderful! Since we ride our bikes to work every day, having a comfortable bike with parts that work is incredible. We donated the bikes we had, and when our service here ends, we'll donate these too. That's part of the agreement with Trek: that the donation is actually to a needy South African but we get to use them in the meantime. Since I also use mine as a means of exercise, I really appreciate having a decent bicycle. I go for a 40 K ride every Sunday morning; I hope to increase the distance once I find more roads that I can ride on safely. In addition to riding to work and for exercise, we also use the bikes to go shopping and run errands. You'd be amazed at how much stuff we can load on the bikes!

Last week we spent a couple of days and nights in Pretoria, the big city. Dave was appointed to the VAC, yes, another acronym. This is the Volunteer Advisory Committee. There are representatives from each group, SA 14 and 15, as well as from Education and NGO. In all there are 12 members. Since our NGO is closed for school break, and will be until April 11, I tagged along to check out the city. While Dave spent many hours in the meetings on Thursday and Friday, I hung out with some of the many, many PCVs who were there for all kinds of reasons. We ate our first Chinese meal since arriving here 8 months ago. We have several new staff members at PC South Africa, so Dave was able to get to know them better since they were in meetings together; not only did he have his VAC meeting, there were other planning meetings as well. In the last few months we have a new Country Director and two new APCDs, our direct contacts with the office.

Our local newspaper asked us, at our suggestion, to write some articles about how Americans see South Africa. So we have written and submitted 6 articles to be published over the next couple of months (though he published 2 in last week's paper, guess he needed to fill space). We call them "Through the Eyes of Americans", each having a subtitle reflecting the topic. We actually took some of our past blog material to produce several of them. For instance, there is one on language, similar to my recent blog. Other topics include: business and banking, riding the bus, the perception of all Americans being rich, separation of church and state, and shopping. If they are well-received (how will he know this?) we will be asked to write more.

With our NGO being closed now for the next two weeks, we are working from home and preparing for our next adventure. On Friday we, along with about 60 other PCVs, will travel to Sabie, in the same area where our two recent trainings were held. In our commuting back and forth over the last couple of months to this area, we have ridden over the Long Tom Pass, the site of the upcoming marathon and half marathon which Peace Corps is supporting. The half marathon run/walk, which most of us are doing, begins early Saturday morning at the highest point of the pass, ending in the town of Lydenburg, 13.1 Km later. With only a couple of uphills, we'll be trying to protect our knees and toes on the long downhill. Dave will be finished long before me since he'll be running; I'll be walking along with a couple of other PCVs. Later I'll post photos; the pass and surrounding area is beautiful, verdant with forests of pine.

It won't be easy to get up early the next morning, but we must. We'll be heading to Maputo, Mozambique, along with Steph (our Milwaukee gal) and Charlene and, from what it sounds like after talking with other PCVs last weekend, several others, probably enough to fill our own taxi. From Nelspruit it should be about a 3 hour taxi ride, not counting the time at the border to get our visas. We'll stay in Mozambique for a week, traveling north to Tofo beach for a few of those days. Not only is the beach supposed to be gorgeous, but that's where you go to swim with the whale sharks, which are the largest living fish, docile and enormous (like school bus size). We are just hoping it won't have cooled off enough for them to have moved offshore too far. Maputo is a popular destination for PCVs based in South Africa; we'll be able to go out at night (wow!), seafood should be great as well as the Portuguese bakeries. We'll come back to site right after Easter, when our NGO opens back up after break.

Night before last we joined a couple of PCV friends for dinner at their house; they've been wanting us to come over for a while. But a dinner invitation here also includes sleeping over, since dinner typically ends after dark (which is about 6:30 now). The only alternative to staying over is to call a private taxi, which we avoid as much as possible. We rode our bikes there (our new Treks, yea!), ate dinner, chatted, stayed over and rode home early the next morning when they had to leave for work. Not that we mind staying over, it's just knowing that once we go anywhere after dark, we aren't free to just 'come home'. This is one aspect of socializing that's hard to get accustomed to, and one we'll probably never enjoy.

The weather should start changing soon; yesterday it actually rained most of the day and into the night; this is the first time it's done that in months. Actually, we can't think of another time it's ever really rained like this since we moved to Polokwane. We've had short downpours, but most of the time it's been sunny and dry; rain is desperately needed. The days will soon be cooler; at least that's what we are told. Nights have continued to be comfortable even when the days are hot. Surprisingly enough, we haven't been terribly uncomfortable with the heat; as long as we stay inside or in the shade it's tolerable.

Thanks to all of you who keep those cards, letters, packages and emails coming; we cherish each one. Happy Spring!

Friday, March 02, 2007

More Observations of South Africa

More Observations of South Africa

I promised I'd write more about what we experience here in South Africa.‭ ‬You've read about transportation,‭ ‬our living situation,‭ ‬the animals on our plot,‭ ‬banks,‭ ‬bicycling and pedestrian rights‭; ‬here are a couple more topics for now.‭ ‬Otherwise,‭ ‬things continue to move ahead ever so slowly with our job and life in general‭; ‬we use our patience-training daily‭; ‬it's no wonder that Peace Corps stresses patience and flexibility so strongly.‭ ‬Soon we'll be writing more about what we have actually been up to this last month or so.‭ ‬But for now,‭ ‬here are my thoughts on funerals and language.

Funerals


Sad to say,‭ ‬but we could be at a funeral every Saturday if we wanted to.‭ ‬Early on in our time here,‭ ‬we opted to attend only those of whom we have had direct contact,‭ ‬either with the deceased or the family.‭ ‬I think it's been a wise decision.‭ ‬Our supervisors,‭ ‬like most other South Africans,‭ ‬do attend a funeral almost every Saturday‭; ‬it's physically tiring as well as mentally wearing.‭ ‬We did attend one in January‭; ‬Peter's first cousin died after a lengthy hospital stay.‭ ‬He was an older man who lived in the little house next to us on the plot.‭ ‬We didn't have long conversations,‭ ‬but he always had a nice greeting for us when we came home.‭ ‬He would typically be sitting in his straight-back chair on his small porch,‭ ‬out of the sun,‭ ‬just watching the animals.‭ ‬We miss seeing him there,‭ ‬and right now we are really missing his taking care of the goats,‭ ‬geese,‭ ‬turkeys and chickens.‭ ‬They always seem hungry and thirsty now and the goats aren't locked up like he kept them.‭ ‬Which means much more sweeping of the dirt for us‭! (‬Goats do poop a lot.‭)

So,‭ ‬like I said,‭ ‬funerals are typically on a Saturday.‭ ‬At some point during the week soon after the death,‭ ‬the family will rent a tent for their yard.‭ (‬It's usually easy to spot a home where there has been a death:‭ ‬the big tent in the yard.‭) ‬Family and friends gather daily,‭ ‬usually in the early evening,‭ ‬during the week for prayer and comfort.‭ ‬Then the funeral takes place early on Saturday morning,‭ ‬around‭ ‬6-7‭ ‬AM,‭ ‬in the tent.‭ ‬The service may last for about an hour or two,‭ ‬then everyone goes to the cemetery‭; ‬everyone that is,‭ ‬except for the women friends who must stay behind and cook.‭ ‬And they aren't just beginning to cook‭; ‬they've been at it all Friday night.‭ ‬When Peter's cousin died there was a fire built next to the son's house on our plot and a couple of big cauldrons were set for cooking the chicken and pap.‭ ‬There were also several gas burners rented,‭ ‬along with the tent and chairs,‭ ‬to cook the rest of the food.‭ ‬More about the food later.

The service at the cemetery is fairly brief‭; ‬what takes a long time is the filling of the grave with dirt.‭ ‬As in Jewish funerals,‭ ‬family and friends toss shovelfuls of dirt into the grave.‭ ‬Except for the women‭; ‬here they only toss in handfuls.‭ ‬I don’t know if it’s a custom,‭ ‬or just the thought that the woman shouldn’t lift the heavy shovel.

Then everyone goes back to the house,‭ ‬where the women have put out the food.‭ ‬And there is lots of it‭; ‬this is one time when nothing is spared.‭ ‬There is a buffet set up outside for the guests‭; ‬as I was joining the line for the buffet I was called inside to eat with the family.‭ ‬The food is the same,‭ ‬but the family gets to sit indoors.‭ ‬And when I say the food is the same,‭ ‬I mean exactly that.‭ ‬There is no change in the menu for any meal at any occasion.‭ ‬There’s the ever present pap,‭ ‬chicken,‭ ‬beef,‭ ‬rice,‭ ‬beets,‭ ‬cabbage.‭ ‬It was funny when Dave and I were in the kitchen helping to clean up after the meal.‭ ‬There were several women‭ (‬of course,‭ ‬no men‭) ‬in the kitchen,‭ ‬most of whom we knew.‭ ‬At one point while we were washing dishes,‭ ‬we overheard them speaking in Sepedi and caught the words for‭ ‘‬white person‭’ (‬makhua‭) ‬and‭ '‬washing dishes‭'‬.‭ ‬They were all shocked when we turned and laughed‭; ‬now they know we understand some of what they are saying and have to be careful‭! ‬They laughed in turn.

When I was out for a bike ride a couple of weeks ago on a Sunday morning I passed by the cemetery where Peter’s cousin had been buried.‭ ‬There were so many taxis‭ (‬public ones like we ride‭) ‬lining the drive into the cemetery and filling the median‭; ‬I couldn’t begin to count them.‭ ‬But this was not a Saturday,‭ ‬so I was confused.‭ ‬Funerals are not held on Sunday so that everyone,‭ ‬especially the pastors,‭ ‬can be in church.‭ (‬If funerals could be on Sundays then pastors would never be available for church.‭) ‬The following day at work I asked about it:‭ ‬Sunday is the day when taxi drivers are buried.‭ ‬Taxis are busy Monday through Saturday‭; ‬the drivers all come to another driver’s funeral on Sunday.‭ ‬No pastor is there to memorialize the deceased.‭ ‬Their union collects money to help with funerals.‭ ‬The following Sunday on my bike ride I found the cemetery empty and quiet.‭

We know we will unfortunately be attending several more funerals while here in Africa‭; ‬it’s sad when riding around the city,‭ ‬or village,‭ ‬and seeing so many tents in the yards,‭ ‬and knowing that the following week will be the same,‭ ‬only the tents will have moved.‭ ‬Sadder yet is knowing that so many of the deceased are being buried well before their time,‭ ‬and that Aids is the cause of so many of them.‭ ‬TIA.


Language

Though we have been here for more than‭ ‬7‭ ‬months now,‭ ‬I am still amazed when listening to Black South Africans speak.‭ ‬There are‭ ‬11‭ ‬national languages,‭ ‬including English,‭ ‬Afrikaans,‭ ‬and nine native ones.‭ ‬It’s almost impossible to find someone who speaks only one language.‭ ‬It makes me feel so inadequate as an American.‭ ‬Though there are many Americans who have learned a second or third language,‭ ‬it’s not common,‭ ‬as it is here.‭ ‬A South African’s first language will depend on the part of the country where one has grown up.‭ ‬Most Blacks,‭ ‬especially those old enough to have been in school during Apartheid,‭ ‬also speak fluent Afrikaans and English.‭ ‬Those in school recently or now also speak English.‭ ‬And many of the elderly speak one or both of those if they happened to work for a white person or family,‭ ‬as our village Gogo did as a housekeeper for many years.‭ ‬But it doesn’t stop there.‭ ‬Most speak several native languages as well.‭ ‬Betty,‭ ‬our host sister in the village,‭ ‬speaks‭ ‬9‭ ‬of the‭ ‬11‭ ‬languages.‭ ‬Victor,‭ ‬our Peace Corps training director,‭ ‬speaks all eleven,‭ ‬not only fluently,‭ ‬but including all the idioms and nuances of English.‭ ‬This is not rare.‭ ‬I don’t know what the average number of languages spoken by Blacks here is,‭ ‬but I venture to guess it’s four or five.‭

What is also interesting is the way English is interspersed into the sentences and conversations.‭ ‬Blacks will go so flawlessly and smoothly from their local language right into English.‭ ‬But what is funny are the English words and phrases that appear in mid-sentence.‭ ‬It’s great for us‭; ‬it’s often the only way we get the gist of the conversation.‭ ‬But we are determined to learn as much Sepedi as possible before our close of service.‭ ‬In fact,‭ ‬we are meeting someone next week who will hopefully be able to serve as a tutor.

Afrikaners too,‭ ‬will typically speak English as well as Afrikaans,‭ ‬but very few know any of the native languages.‭ ‬Those who do have usually owned a farm and learned the native tongue in order to communicate with their hired help.‭ ‬But most don’t even know how to greet in the local language,‭ ‬which,‭ ‬as we have learned,‭ ‬is so important.‭ ‬Locals appreciate it so much,‭ ‬and get a big kick out of our attempts.‭ ‬Greeting street vendors and taxi and bus drivers is one way of assuring they remember us‭; ‬one never knows when being recognized might come in handy.‭ (‬Think here of being mugged‭; ‬hey,‭ ‬it’s almost a given.‭) ‬Trying to speak the local language sets us apart from the other whites on the street‭; ‬we are recognized as foreigners and not Afrikaners,‭ ‬which might be a benefit.‭ ‬I also recall being told that learning a language is a great way to keep our aging brains from deteriorating so quickly,‭ ‬so here’s to learning Sepedi‭!